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Method 1
Because not everyone has wick pins (yet), the first part
of this article describes how to make votive candles without wick pins, or
the masochistic method.
If you do have wick pins ready, you can go directly to the second page.
As usual, start by preparing all the supplies and tools
you'll need during this project. On this picture, clockwise and starting on
the top left: 6 metal votive cups, a bottle of Fragrance Oil, votive wicks
(wax coated and tabbed), a wicking needle, 2 teaspoons of Vybar and powder
dye.
Start melting your votive wax blend in the double boiler,
watching the temperature constantly with a thermometer. When the temperature
reaches 190°F, add the dye (optional) and the fragrance oil (optional as
well) and stir thoroughly during 1 to 2 minutes to uniformly blend dye and
scent into the wax.
Pour a small amount (one centimeter, 0.4in) of wax in each
votive cup. This will allow you to fasten the wick and its tab in the next
step.
When the wax starts to settle, it's time to anchor the
wick. Use your wicking needle to push the tabbed wick to the bottom of the
cups, making sure that the wick tab is correctly centered (it won't be
possible to correct its position later on). Press with the needle on each
side of the tab and keep pressing for a few seconds. Let the wax cool off a
little (but don't let it get entirely cold or hard) before you go to the
next step.
It is time now to fill the cups with hot wax. Before you
start pouring, check the temperature of the wax: it should still be as close
to 190°F as possible. Fill the cups to the top but don't let wax run over:
the top sides of your votives would be ruined and the candles difficult to
remove from their molds.
Now comes the most delicate step when one works without
wick pins: make sure the wick is perfectly centered and tight!
To this effect, stay close to your votive cups and watch the surface of the
wax: when it starts to congeal, pinch the wick between thumb and index
finger and pull it gently upwards and lead it back towards the center of the
candle. Keep it this way for a few seconds. When you let the wick go, it
should remain in this position. Repeat this operation 3 to 4 times with one
minute intervals.
The wax will get increasingly harder and start to shrink.
To prevent the formation of large air pockets along the wick and, as a
result of this, a misshapenness of the wick, use your wicking needle to poke
deep holes in at least 3 different places along the wick. Use this
opportunity to straighten the wick one last time but don't insist if it
won't move. Never mind the aesthetics of your candles, the relief holes will
be masked by the second pour we will perform in the next step.
As you can see on the picture opposite, a well appears
between the sides of the cups and the wick. This is a normal reaction of the
cooling wax.
To get rid this ugly well, we will now make a second pour, in other words
fill the well with some more hot wax.
While the votive cups are still warm to the touch, reheat
the remaining votive wax in the double boiler up to a temperature of 190°F.
With caution, fill the shrinking well in every cup BUT DO NOT POUR OVER THE
INITIAL LEVEL. If you go past the initial level, your votives will not only
be hard to unmold, they will also feature an unsightly white line (cold
line) near the top.
It is unlikely that you'll have to make a third pour.
However, if a shrinking well appears again (did you pour too hot?), repeat
the previous step (a very mild well is normal and actually desirable for a
votive candle; it is also almost unavoidable).
When the cups are cold to the touch (this takes anywhere between 2 and 4
hours), your votive candles are ready! Press the cups between your hands and
pull gently on the wick. If the candles won't pop out on their own, don't
use violence: place the cups in the fridge (NOT the freezer) during 10 to 15
minutes. Your votives will then pop out without resistance.
The goal of it all: a batch of tiny scented votive candles
Save time and your nerves with the votive wick pins
So you went shopping and purchased a few wick pins? You
won't regret it, they're going to make your life way easier and save you a
great deal of time (all that time you won't have to spend watching the wax
settle and adjust the position of the wicks).
and of course the usual supplies: thermometer, double boiler, pouring
jugs...
As usual, start by preparing all the supplies and tools
you'll need during this project. On this picture, clockwise and starting on
the top left: 6 metal votive cups, a bottle of Fragrance Oil, 6 votive wick
pins, a wicking needle, votive wicks (wax coated and tabbed), 2 teaspoons of
Vybar and powder dye.
Start melting the votive wax blend in your double boiler
and keep checking the temperature of the wax with the thermometer. When the
temperature reaches 190°F, add the dye (optional) and the fragrance oil
(optional as well) and stir thoroughly during 1 to 2 minutes to uniformly
blend dye and scent into the wax.
Place a wick pin in each votive cup. It's a good idea to rub the pin of the
wick pins with a some mineral or vegetal oil, this will facilitate the
removal of the wick pin at the end.
It is now time to pour the hot wax into the votive cups.
Before you start, make sure the wax is still at a temperature of 190°F. Fill
the cups to the top but make sure you don't let wax run over: the top sides
of your votives would be ruined and the candles difficult to remove from
their molds.
The wax will get increasingly harder and start to shrink.
To prevent the formation of large air pockets along the wick and, as a
result of this, a misshapenness of the wick, use your wicking needle to poke
deep holes in at least 3 different places along the wick. Use this
opportunity to straighten the wick one last time but don't insist if it
won't move. Never mind the aesthetics of your candles, the relief holes will
be masked by the second pour we will perform in the next step.
As you can see on the picture, a well appears between the
sides of the cups and the wick. This is a normal reaction of the cooling
wax. To get rid this ugly well, we will now make a
second pour, in other words fill the well with some more hot wax.
While the votive cups are still warm to the touch, reheat
the remaining votive wax in the double boiler up to a temperature of 190°F.
With caution, fill the shrinking well in every cup BUT DO NOT POUR OVER THE
INITIAL LEVEL. If you go past the initial level, your votives will not only
be hard to unmold, they will also feature an unsightly white line (cold
line) near the top.
It is unlikely that you'll have to make a third pour.
However, if a shrinking well appears again (did you pour too hot?), repeat
the previous step (a very mild well is normal and actually desirable for a
votive candle; it is also almost unavoidable).
When the votive cups are cold to the touch (this takes
anywhere between 2 and 4 hours), your votives are ready to receive a real
wick! Press a cup between your hands and pull gently on the pin of the wick
pin. If the candle won't pop out, don't use violence: put the cups in the
fridge (NOT the freezer) for about 15 minutes. They should then pop out
without any resistance.
The time has come to remove the wick pins and replace them
with the tabbed votive wicks. Tap the end of the pin against a hard surface
(floor tiling or other) to unblock the wick pin. When the base of the wick
pin has parted slightly from the bottom of the candle, pull on the base of
the wick pin while turning it around, it should come out without problems.
Insert a tabbed wick through the hole created by the wick
pin. To make sure the wick tab sticks to the candle, heat it for one or two
seconds with the flame of a lighter then, immediately, press it strongly
against the bottom of the votive candle. Keep pressing for a few seconds.
Your votive candles are ready!
Author: Chris, Owner of HowtomakeCandles.info
Check out his website with loads of informational resources for candle makers, and show your support!
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